What does the herding dog do at a trial?

Just as they would at work, herding dogs drive sheep through specific tasks during competition.  Depending on where the event is held and which sanctioning body is in control, the trial may contain different elements.  The most common are described below.

With the handler staying in one place (the stake position), the dog is sent out to find a group of sheep and bring them back to the handler.  This is the most basic task a stock dog must be able to do.  Although it goes against the dog’s instinct, they are often told to drive the sheep away from the handler, as a test of how well the dog is willing to follow directions.  In some trials, the dog must move the sheep in a straight line across the course in front of the handler, but at a distance far away from where the handler stands.

Once the fetching and driving portions are done, the handler will usually leave the stake position and join the dog, working together to accomplish the remainder of the tasks.  The dog and handler may be asked to herd the sheep into a pen or onto a truck.  They may be called upon to single out a particular sheep and separate him or her from the rest of the stock.  Alternatively, they may be asked to divide the herd into two groups based on a random characteristic given by the judge.  For example, half of the herd may be marked with a particular color, and the dog must separate those that are marked from those that are unmarked.

The various tasks each have a different name and must be completed in the order specified by the judge, which can vary from one event to another.

• Cast is when the dog leaves the handler and rounds up the herd.
• Lift means bringing the herd back to the handler.  A double lift requires the dog to bring one group of sheep back, then do another cast for a second group.
• Away drive involves driving the animals away from the handler’s position.
• Cross drive means walking the animals across in front of the handler.
• Singling means separating one sheep out of the herd

What commands does a herding dog understand?

Herding dogs are among the most intelligent dogs on the planet, so there’s no limit to the number of commands they will understand.  In fact, when multiple dogs are used in herding, each dog may be taught different commands so that the handler can instruct them to do different things without even using their names.  Commands may be given verbally, with hand signals, or with a whistle.  The major commands are:

• Come-bye or bye, which means to circle around the stock clockwise
• Away to me or away, which means to circle around the stock counter-clockwise
• Stand, which means to stop or at least slow down
• Wait, down, or sit, which means to stop
• Steady, which means to slow down
• Cast, which means to gather the stock into a group
• Find, which means to search for the stock
• Hold, which means to keep the stock in one place
• Bark, which tells the dog to bark to keep the stock in line
• Look back, tells the dog to go back for an animal he has missed
• In there, tells the dog to go into a gap (however small) between animals
• Walk up, walk on, or walk, indicates the dog is to move closer to the stock
• That’ll do, which means the dog is to stop working and return to the handler.

How is a herding trial scored?

The judge assigns a maximum number of points available for each element of the competition.  Each dog starts out with that number of points, then deductions are taken for each fault.  A dog cannot lose more than the maximum number of points for each element.  For example, if the maximum number of points for the cast is 10 and the total number for the event is 60, a dog who really messes up the cast cannot lose 15 points, even though the total score still has enough points left to accommodate the fault.  The dog cannot lose more than 10 points on the cast because that element only had 10 points available at the outset.

Dogs must complete each element in the specified order before moving on to the next task.  A total maximum time is set for the course, but there is no benefit to finishing faster than the allotted time.  For any elements that are not completed when the time has elapsed, the dog loses all points available for that element.  For example, let’s say the maximum points allowed were:

Element 1:  15            Element 2:  25             Element 3:  10

Element 4:  20          Element 5:  10

If the dog made it through all of the first three elements and half of the fourth, the dog would lose all 20 points for element 4 and all 10 points for element 5.

If you watch a herding trial, you might be surprised to find the judge concentrating more on the sheep than on the dog or the handler.  A dog who can manage the herd without needlessly upsetting them is a great asset, and this can be best judged by watching how the sheep react to the dog as he or she works.

It’s all about the eye

A sheep dog is said to have a strong eye if he or she is able to maintain constant eye contact with the stock animals.  Border collies are known as a strong eye breed, although there are some individual Border Collies who aren’t particularly strong eyed.  If you see one in action, you will notice that the dog spends most of the time with their front shoulders close to the ground, very intensely staring at the sheep, but rarely barking.  These dogs are great at covering large areas to bring a herd together at the command of the handler.

In contrast, a loose-eyed dog will use his or her body position to control the stock and will most often work in a more upright position.  The loose-eyed breeds, like the Australian Cattle Dog, often bark while they work.  Loose-eyed dogs are usually bred to work more independently, away from the handler.  They usually work in smaller areas such as in pens and stockyards.  Dogs known as heelers may nip at the livestocks’ heels to make them move.

Where can I see Sheepdog Trials?

The very first sheepdog trials were held in New Zealand in 1867, and the sport quickly spread throughout the United Kingdom during the 1870′s and to the United States in the 1880′s.  In the United Kingdom, the main sanctioning body is the International Sheepdog Society,  while in the United States, the Border Collie Handlers Association, the Australian Shepherd Club of America,  and the American Kennel Club all hold trials.

The biggest events are the West Soldier Hollow Classic in Utah, the Meeker Classic in Colorado, and the Border Collie Handlers Association’s National Championship, which is held in different locales each year.

Click here for the Border Collie Event Schedule.

Click here for the Australian Shepherd Event Schedule.

Check your local listings for televised events.

Can I teach my dog to herd?

Herding behavior is mostly the result of a dog’s having a huge prey drive, modified to stop before killing the prey.  Dogs who excel at herding have been bred through the centuries to treat livestock as prey, but not to hurt the stock.

If your dog has a very strong prey drive, it may make a good herder.  Other qualities include stamina, intelligence, focus, and obedience.  You may want to join a club to learn the basic rules of herding trials.  Most club members are happy to give you free advice and training tips for your dog.  However, make sure to match the type of dog you have to the type of club you join, as the skill sets are quite different for different types of dogs.

Strong-eyed dogs like the Border Collie typically work in front of the stock, staring down the animals to keep them in a group.  Heelers drive the dogs forward by nipping their heels.  The Australian Kelpie is known to work both ahead of and behind the herd.  In addition, these dogs will run along the backs of the sheep to get from one end of the group to another.  Because of this multi-tasking, they are said to head, heal, and back.

If you have had the privilege of living with a herding dog, you already know that these breeds have a tremendous amount of energy.  Participating in herding trials can be a great way to keep both their minds occupied and their bodies in shape.

How do I know when it’s time to euthanize my dog?

Sometimes the decision is easy, such as when a dog has been hit by a car and has no hope of living any kind of a normal life.  Other times, it is gut-wrenching, and you will likely second guess yourself for the rest of your life.

There are a couple of reasons you might consider putting your dog down.  The most common reason is due to a serious illness.  You might choose to put your dog down when you first get the diagnosis, or you might attempt treatment and euthanize the dog only if he or she doesn’t respond, or you may choose not to offer treatment, but to put the dog to sleep when the symptoms interfere with the animal’s quality of life.

If you choose to put the dog to sleep as soon as you get the diagnosis, it may be because the treatment will be too hard for the dog to take, or it may be because your family finances simply will not allow you to pursue advanced and costly treatment for your dog.  Certainly no one is advocating that you treat the dog before you feed your kids, and a budget can only stretch so far.

If you decide to put off the decision about euthanasia, it can sometimes be hard to tell when you need to step in and make a choice.  Like anyone, dogs have good days and bad days.  You may be able to improve your dog’s quality of life with something simple like buffered aspirin for pain relief, and your dog will hang on for a relatively long time.  With or without treatment, there will generally come a time when your dog decides he or she has simply had enough.

The dog might communicate this to you in a number of different ways, but one of the most reliable is the eyes.  A dog who is in pain will show white at the bottom of the eyes, and it may be bloodshot.  In essence, the dog will look like an old hound dog with droopy lids and a very sad face.  It’s a little tough to describe here, but you will know it when you see it.

Other signs your dog may be done with this life are loss of appetite, inability to control bowels or bladder, disinterest in play or even in getting up out of bed.  When you recognize these signs in your best friend, it’s probably time to at least consult the vet as to whether or not you should put the animal down.  You may feel like a real heel for doing so, but it’s important to remember that your dog will be better off when the pain is gone for good.  You might want to ask yourself the question, “Is my dog having more good days or more bad days?”  If bad days are winning out, it’s probably time to call the vet.

Other than injury or illness, other reasons you might consider putting your dog down include a dog who is vicious or a dog who can no longer be cared for by your family, for financial or other reasons.  If your dog has bitten people or other dogs for no reason, you may choose to take the proper precautions such as a high, sturdy fence and extra insurance, or you may have to make the decision to put the dog down.  It is not unusual for families to decide they can no longer have a certain dog in their home, particularly if there are two-legged children at risk or if the family has been sued due to an attack committed by the family pet.

If the reason for putting your pet down has more to do with you than with your dog, please explore options other than putting the dog to sleep.  Many shelters and breeders will take back a dog that is just not working out for your family.  Rescue organizations and shelters understand that sometimes the family budget gets cut for reasons out of anyone’s control, and the dog is simply a victim of finances.  No one likes to think of their dog going to a shelter, but if you choose to go this route, you may be able to find one that has a no-kill policy.  Search online for a breed rescue group if you have a purebred.  They are usually more than willing to foster your dog until a suitable placement can be found.  Your veterinarian may be able to help you locate a group or an individual who would be able to take your dog if you need to give him or her up.

No matter which reason you have for considering euthanasia, you will want to discuss your feelings and thoughts with family members, other people who are significant in the dog’s life, and with your veterinarian before coming to a final conclusion on the matter.

Once I’ve made the decision for euthanasia, how do I proceed?

Although it is possible to perform a euthanasia at home, the preferred method is to allow your dog’s vet to handle the procedure.  Your vet has been through this before with many other animals and their families, so he could be your best resource to getting through the process.  Most vets will be willing to fit you in on the same day when it becomes necessary to euthanize the dog.

If you don’t have an ongoing relationship with a veterinarian, you may want to call around and make sure that the clinic where you make an appointment will allow you to be in the room with your dog as he is put to sleep.  No matter how weak and weepy you think you will be in that room, you simply have to be there for your dog.  It’s the least you can do.

Make sure that each family member has a chance to say goodbye to the dog before you load him or her up in the car, if possible.  Except in cases of critical injury, you can usually wait a few hours for everyone to get home before you rush off to the vet clinic.

When you arrive at the vet’s office, ask if you can make arrangements before you go into the examination room.  It’s much easier to deal with payment and questions about disposition of the remains before the procedure.  After you have done all of the paperwork, you will probably be escorted into an examination room.  Your dog will be placed on the table, or in the case of very large dogs, on the floor.  Very small dogs may be held in your lap during the procedure.

The veterinarian should come into the room and ask if you want to talk about your decision before making it final.  If you have any questions or want to explore other options, this would be the time to do so.  Once you are satisfied that euthanasia is the only option for your pet, the vet will give the dog a shot of anesthesia, usually in a vein on one of the front paws, and your dog will simply go to sleep.  The vet will check the dog’s heartbeat with a stethoscope over the course of the next one or two minutes, and then he or she will tell you that the dog is gone.  Your vet may leave the room and allow you time to say goodbye, if the clinic’s workload scheduling permits.

What do I do with the body?

Before you have the vet give the injection, it’s important that you consider what you will do with the dog’s body.  Most vets have an arrangement with at least one crematorium and one pet cemetery.

Your basic options include:

• Burial at home
• Burial in pet cemetery (individual or mass grave)
• Cremation (individual or with other dogs)
• Return of ashes or not

If you choose to bury the dog at home, consider how you will get the body home.  You are not likely to want to just load your best friend into your car and drive off.  The vet may be able to provide a cardboard carrier or at least a paper bag if the dog is small enough to fit in one.  Otherwise, you may want to bring a blanket or kennel with you.  Check your local ordinances to make sure it is legal for you to plant your pet in the back yard.

If your community is fortunate enough to have a pet cemetery, you may make arrangements for your pet to be buried there.  Things to check in advance include whether or not the body must be cremated before burial, whether or not individual gravesites are allowed, whether or not gravestones are permitted, and whether or not the cemetery is open so you can sit near your dog’s grave and reflect on your life with him or her.

If you don’t want to deal with the body at all, chances are your vet will send the animal to be cremated along with any other animals the crematorium receives that day.  The ashes of all of the animals will probably be co-mingled and disposed of together.  Alternatively, you can pay for a private cremation, which your vet can probably arrange for you.  Your dog’s body will be burned alone, and you will be able to get back the ashes if you’d like to display them in an urn or bury them.

If you choose to display the ashes, you have many options.  The ashes will be returned to you in a plastic bag, possibly inside a tin container of some kind.  You may choose to simply keep the ashes in the container, as many vets provide a tin with dog footprints or some other design on it, and it is totally adequate for this purpose.  You can upgrade to a more formal urn at a housewares store or at one of your local funeral homes.

Dealing with the after-effects of dog euthanasia

Because of the important place your dog held in your family, you will likely be dealing with the effects of his or her death for quite awhile after the process is completed.  You may go through the classic stages of grief – denial, anger or guilt, depression, acceptance – just as you would for anyone else you have lost.  This is totally normal, and should not be cause for concern.

Many times, it is tough to get through the entire grief process if you feel guilty about having made the decision to put the dog to sleep.  If you came to the decision by consulting with your family and your vet, it may help you to remember that you were doing what was in the best interest of both your family and the dog.

It may help you to reach the acceptance stage if you have a way to remember the dog.  You may wish to have a memorial service or spread the dog’s ashes in a favorite spot, or release balloons which contain the dog’s picture.  You might make a donation to a pet-related charity in your dog’s memory.  You may choose to display the dog’s picture or collar to give you a frequent reminder of the special memories you created with the pet.

Whether or not you choose to bury your dog or the ashes in your back yard, there are numerous places you can purchase a memory stone to place either at the gravesite or in your garden.

Everlife Memorials has a wide selection not only of memorial stones but also urns, jewelry, and other keepsakes.

PetMemorial.com allows you to place a free or premium memorial message about your dog online.

Heaven’s Playground offers a site for posting photos and memories, as well as a place to buy keepsakes.

If you need to talk about your loss, visit the Delta Society’s searchable listing of grief support groups just for pet families.

If you have children in your home, you may want to read GriefHealing.com’s article on Helping Children Cope With a Pet’s Euthanasia.

A model of canine teeth

Basic Anatomy

Adult dogs have 42 teeth, composed of incisors in the front, canines (the long teeth that look like fangs), premolars, and molars.  There is a slight variability in the number of teeth based on breed, but most dogs have a total of 42.

There should be six incisors in the top jaw and six in the bottom.  These teeth are used to peel the meat off of bones and to aid the dog in grooming himself or herself, as well as other dogs.

The four canine teeth, one in each quadrant of the mouth, help the dog defend against attack, but also are used to simply hold objects in the mouth, such as tug toys or Frisbees.

Next in line come the sixteen pre-molars, four behind each canine tooth.  The pre-molars are what your dog would use if he or she lived in the wild to tear up large chunks of meat.  In more civilized society, however, your dog uses the pre-molars to chew on bones and other toys.  The premolars serve the important function of keeping your dog’s tongue inside his or her mouth.  If these teeth are missing, such as in many Chinese Cresteds, the tongue may hang out of the side of the mouth.

In the back of the mouth are the molars, two on each side of the top jaw and three on each side of the bottom jaw.  Molars are the strongest of the dog’s teeth, used to crush bones or to pulverize dog biscuits.

Your dog’s bite, or the way the upper and lower jaws meet when the mouth is closed, can vary based on breed and on the unique shape of a specific dog’s mouth within a certain breed.  Usually, the bite pattern of a specific breed is part of the breed standard and a dog with a different type of bite may not be suitable for conformance shows.

A dog is said to have a level bite when the upper and lower incisors meet tip-to-tip.  An overbite results from the upper incisors being significantly in front of the lower incisors, while an undershot bite is the reverse condition. Undershot bites are common in dogs with short noses such as Pugs and Bulldogs.  A scissors bite occurs when the upper incisors are just slightly in front of the lower incisors, causing the tops of the lower teeth to touch the back of the upper teeth.  The scissors bite is most common in dogs.

Tooth structure

The inside of the tooth is called the pulp or root canal, which carries the blood vessels and nerves.  Around the canal is the dentin layer, which gives the tooth its structural strength.  The portion of the tooth that lives below the gum line is called the root, while the visible portion is called the crown.  Only the crown has a layer of enamel over it to protect the tooth.  The gum tissue that covers the root is called the gingiva.  It is this tissue that becomes inflamed when tartar is not removed in a timely manner.

Can you really tell a dog’s age by his or her teeth?

While you won’t get the dog’s exact age by checking his or her mouth, you can pick up helpful clues as to the age of the dog.  However, if the dog has lived a pampered life, he or she may appear to be younger because the teeth will be in good shape.  Conversely, a dog who has had to scrounge for food and has never owned a toothbrush may look older than he or she actually is.  The following generalities may help you decide the approximate age of a newly adopted dog.

The first puppy teeth generally begin to break through the gums at four to five weeks, starting in the front of the mouth.  These deciduous or milk teeth number only 28, as the puppy has no need for molars at this young age.  At about three months after birth, the front teeth or incisors begin to be replaced by permanent teeth, followed by the premolars, molars, and finally the adult canines.  A dog will generally have all of his or her permanent teeth by the age of six months.

While the permanent teeth are coming in, your dog may have some discomfort, causing him or her to begin chewing up everything you own.  To discourage chewing of your valuables, try wetting a washrag and placing it the freezer, then giving it to your dog to use as a soother.

The dog’s teeth should be clean and white throughout the first two to three years, although  you may see some yellowing of the back teeth.  By age five, the yellowing will probably be seen on all of the dog’s teeth, a result of tartar buildup.  As the dog continues to age, the biting surface of the dog’s teeth will begin to show signs of wear and tear, grinding down the pointed surfaces.  Beyond age ten, you may start to see tooth loss.

Dental disease

If you’ve ever had a toothache, you know how painful it is.  Your dog can experience the same types of dental problems you can, but he or she can’t tell you about it.  Therefore, you must be alert to the signs of dental disease to prevent your dog from suffering unnecessarily before getting treatment.

Symptoms of dental disease include bad breath, brown discoloration, cracked teeth, trouble chewing, bleeding gums, and pain or whimpering when the muzzle is touched.  One of the most common dental problems dogs face is the same as that faced by humans:  tooth decay.  Because many people don’t brush their dog’s teeth regularly, plaque begins to build up on the teeth and soon hardens into tartar, causing yellowing of the teeth.  Because your dog’s lifespan is so much shorter than yours, it is unlikely that tooth decay will develop into outright cavities.  However, when your dog eats, soft pieces of food may become stuck between the teeth or in the small pockets along the gumline that surround each tooth.  If these food particles aren’t removed, they can cause an infection, which leads to bad breath, softened gums and gum recession.  When the gumline recedes, the portion of the tooth that has no protective enamel is then exposed, which can lead to pain when the tooth encounters temperature extremes.

More important, however, is the fact that what starts out as a small dental infection can spread to the rest of the body, potentially even leading to your dog’s death if left untreated.

Retained baby teeth

In most cases, as an adult tooth comes in, the root of the baby tooth is reabsorbed by the dog’s body.  If the root is not reabsorbed, the adult tooth will not be able to push out the crown of the baby tooth and break through the gum.  Retention of baby teeth can cause the dog’s bite to be off, a condition known as malocclusion.  Because the dog’s mouth does not close properly, food is more likely to become stuck in the teeth, and tooth decay will occur faster in a dog with a maloccluded bite.

Broken teeth

Working dogs are the dogs most likely to break a tooth because they use their teeth to carry out their jobs, rather than just to chew their food like house dogs do.  A cracked or broken tooth may or may not cause your dog any pain.  If your dog continues to eat well and shows no signs of infection, it is not necessary to do anything about the broken or cracked tooth.

However, if your dog stops eating or will only eat soft food, becomes unable to perform his working duties, or shows any signs of infection, you may want to have a veterinary dentist crown the tooth to protect it from further damage.

Home Dental care

In order to keep your dog’s teeth healthy, you should try to remove tartar at home before it builds up to the level where it must be scaled off using dental instruments.  Pour some three percent hydrogen peroxide on a wash cloth and rub your dog’s teeth on a regular basis.

If desired, you can purchase commercial toothpaste and toothbrushes made specifically for dogs.  Baking soda also makes a good dog toothpaste.  Your dog’s teeth should be brushed at least once or twice a week.  See our doggies den article on caring for your dog’s teeth for more information.

To help prevent the build-up of tartar, give your dogs raw bones which can help to scrape the teeth.  Cooked bones can be quite hard and may break your dog’s teeth, and they may cause intestinal problems because they can splinter.  Raw bones are soft enough to resist splintering, yet hard enough to scrape the plaque and tartar off the teeth.  They also provide an important source of calcium.

Proper home dental care, combined with routine inspections of your dog’s teeth by a veterinarian, will allow your dog’s teeth to last a lifetime.

Doctors Foster and Smith’s Pet Education Center has a number of articles on canine dental care,  while PetPlace.com offers this guide to brushing your dog’s teeth.

Shelter Facts

AdoptingADog.org is dedicated to educating the public about shelter dogs, providing information to help convince people to adopt their next pet, rather than buying from a pet store.  They offer the following facts:

• Number of dogs given to shelters annually:  8 – 10 million.
• Number of Greyhounds killed annually in the racing industry:  20,000
• Number of dogs in the United States:  52 million
• Number of homes in the United States that include a dog:  33.9 million
• Only about half of America’s unwanted pets are taken to a shelter.  The remainder are left to wander the streets or are killed.
• About 40% of dogs given to animal shelters are purebreds, but the shelters may not advertise this fact unless the person bringing in the dog has his or her papers.
• Over 3,000 dogs are born every hour in the United States.
• Every year, there are 10 times more dogs and cats born in the United States than there are homes for.
• A single unspayed dog and her descendants can produce over 4,000 puppies over the course of seven generations. 

How can I help?

The statistics are grim.  But there are ways you can help.  One of the biggest things you can do is to make sure you know what to expect when you bring a dog into your home.  If you want a small dog, don’t let anyone convince you that the runt of the Saint Bernard litter will remain small.  If you have neighbors who call the police whenever you turn on your stereo, you need to have a plan for how you will handle barking.  If your child is allergic to dogs, look for a breed that is hypoallergenic.  One of the biggest reasons why dogs are surrendered at shelters is that the dog simply didn’t meet the family’s expectations.  This is hardly the dog’s fault, but nevertheless it is the dog who suffers, often for the rest of a pitifully short life.

The next most important thing you can do to reduce shelter populations is to spay or neuter your dogs.  The only true solution to pet overpopulation is to prevent it from the start.  If you are not breeding or showing your dog, there is absolutely no reason to keep the dog intact.  Low-cost spay and neuter clinics are offered in nearly every jurisdiction in the country.  There is no value at all to the dog in waiting to spay or neuter.  Female dogs actually have an increased risk of cancer if they are permitted to have a litter, and male dogs may become less aggressive after neutering.

Make sure your dogs are tagged and / or microchipped.  Many lost dogs end up at shelters, and if they cannot be identified and returned to their families, they may be euthanized.  Alternatively, they may take up scarce space, meaning that another dog will be put down.  If you are traveling with your dog, make sure your dog’s tags include your cell number so you can be reached on the road.

Last, but certainly not least, adopt a shelter dog when you are looking for a new member for your family.  Shelter dogs come in every shape, size, and personality, so you will definitely find the one you want.  If you are willing to adopt an older dog, the need is especially great.

Choosing a Shelter Dog Part One:  Before You Go

Before you make your visit to a shelter to choose a new family member, you should do some basic research to increase the odds of finding the perfect pet.  Petfinder.com is a great resource.  You can also use the website of your local shelter.

Look at several of the dogs listed as available, even if they are not dogs in which you are interested.  Do their descriptions indicate that anyone has actually evaluated the dog or do they all say the same thing?  Shelters and rescues that use foster homes rather than institutional cages can usually give you a better idea of what the dog is really like.  The description should be clear as to whether the dog is good with children, cats, and other dogs.  Any special needs should be fully described, as well as on-going medical care the dog may need.

Check the shelter’s return policy.  A reputable shelter will have a policy in place that allows you to return the dog if things don’t work out.  Most shelters will take a return, or in fact insist upon a return, at any time.  Large shelters with limited resources may set a time limit for returns.  In most cases, your adoption fee will not be refunded if you return the dog, although any deposit you have made for spaying and neutering should be refundable within a short time frame.

Narrow your list of shelter choices to those that look best based on the above criteria, then call each shelter on your list by considering the following:

What is the spay / neuter policy?  Many shelters have adopted a policy that no animals are available for adoption until after the animal has been spayed or neutered.  This is admirable because it helps with the overpopulation problem.  However, this may mean you cannot take your puppy home with you on your first visit, so distance to the shelter must be considered since you will be making two trips.  Also, a strict spay / neuter policy means that very young dogs are being put under general anesthesia, which is somewhat risky.  To avoid this risk, some shelters charge a deposit, and once the animal is spayed or neutered, the deposit is refunded.

Ask if the shelter does any temperament testing before placing dogs on the available list.  You will want some assurance that the dog is suitable for your family before you agree to take the dog home.

Check out the shelter’s adoption policy and fees.  Is there any kind of an application that would indicate the shelter is screening families to find those who are capable of taking good care of the dogs or will they release the dogs to anyone who shows up?  What do the fees include?  In many cases, the shelter will include the cost of microchipping and spaying or neutering the dog.  If your dog doesn’t need either of  these services, you may be able to negotiate a lower fee.  Other shelters may ask for whatever donation you are able to give to help defray their costs.

While you are on the phone, try to get some sense of how the staff feels about dogs.  Are they just identified by a cage number or does the person you talk to know the dog by name?  Are the dogs considered an inconvenience or are they treated as loving, lovable beings who have run up against some misfortune in their lives through no fault of their own?

Choosing a Shelter Dog Part Two:  At the Shelter

What should you look for in a shelter dog?  As when you are choosing any dog, you should be most interested in how the dog fits with your family’s lifestyle.  If you are outdoorsy, spending many weekends camping and hiking, you will want a sturdy dog, probably with short fur that will be less likely to pick up burrs.  If you live in an especially warm climate, you will want a dog with a lighter coat, rather than something like a Siberian Husky or a Bernese Mountain Dog.

Try to go in with an open mind.  You may have your heart set on a certain breed, but you may end up going home with a dog of another breed or even a mutt that ends up being a better match for your family.

Ask the shelter to bring the dog to a larger room so you can see how the dog reacts to you when he or she is away from the other dogs and outside of a cage.  Ideally, the dog will interact with you and your family willingly.  If the dog has his or her tail between the legs, head down, or hackles up, it is likely the dog has had unfortunate experiences with people in the past.  You should only take a dog like that if you have had experience in rehabilitating abused dogs.

Try to interest the dog in playing with you by throwing a ball or offering a tug toy.  Again, the dog should willingly want to play, but should not be overly possessive of the toy.  You should be able to take the toy away from the dog without causing a major upset.

Put a treat and a toy down near the dog and see which one generates the most interest.  This will help you to determine the dog’s primary drive, which can help you decide how to train the dog or if the dog will be good at certain sports.  For example, in dock diving, the dog must be willing to chase a toy into the pool.  If the dog’s primary drive is food, it may be harder to train the dog to go after a toy.

If possible, take the dog for a short walk to see how the dog reacts to distractions.  Ideally, the dog will remain focused on you even while other dogs are nearby or when cars go past.  A dog who can maintain his or her concentration will be much easier to train.

Through a fence, introduce the dog to your children.  Have your child put his or her hand flat against the chain links and see how the dog reacts.  Under no circumstances should your child put fingers into the pen.  Once the dog has met the child, have the child run or make loud noises and see what the dog does.  If the sudden movement or sounds are upsetting to the dog, this is not the dog you will want in your home.

Learn more about choosing the right dog for your family and bringing a new dog into your home in our doggies den.

Preparing for your camping trip

The first step in preparing to take your dog camping is the same as the first step for just about any type of activity you will do with your dog:  obedience training.  Your camp neighbors will appreciate it if you keep your dog on your own campsite and keep him or her from barking all night long.  Before you even think about taking your dog on a camping trip, make sure he or she understands the basic commands of come, sit, stay, down, off, and heel.

Not only will this make your people friends happy, it can also keep your dog safe during the trip.  Your dog must be able to return quickly to your side when called to prevent him or her from bears and skunks which might be encountered when camping.

Next, make sure your dog’s vaccines are up to date, particularly his or her rabies shot.  Wild animals such as raccoons may carry the rabies virus and it only takes a second for your dog to become infected if he or she is not properly protected by vaccine.

Ask your vet if there are any special precautions you should take for the area where you will be camping.  For example, if you are going to Colorado, you might worry about Rocky Mountain spotted ticks.  In the northeastern United States, lyme disease from deer ticks might be a concern.

Read our articles on reading your dog’s behavior so you can tell when your dog is starting to get aggressive or submissive.  Spend a few days before you leave observing your dog so you can control him or her better during encounters with other dogs, people, and wild animals.  Noticing how your dog is acting can help you anticipate problems before they blow up.

Check out your dog’s accessories.  That pink diamond-studded collar may be great for parties, but you will want a heavy-duty leash and collar to keep your dog restrained in the wild.  If your dog is susceptible to temperature extremes, consider packing a cooling vest or sweatshirt to keep him or her comfortable.  If you will be doing a lot of hiking, your dog might need boots to protect his or her sensitive foot pads from injury, hot surfaces, and natural pokers like thorns and pine needles.

Make sure you have the proper equipment to keep your dog safe while you travel to your destination.  Check with your airline for requirements as to cage size and durability.  If you will be driving, make sure you have a car harness or crate to keep your dog in his or her seat and out of the driver’s seat.  Never, ever let your dog ride uncrated in the back of a pick-up truck.  Even if you are an excellent driver, some other fool on the road may cause you to swerve, knocking your dog out of the bed of the truck.  Tethering your dog in the back of the truck is also problematic, as a hard turn or near-miss can dump the dog out, causing it to be choked by the restraint.

Check your dog’s tags.  Is the license up to date?  Does the ID tag show the dog’s name, as well as a number at which someone can be reached while you’re away?  You can’t count on your cellular phone working in a camping area.  Your phone may get waterlogged or dropped, or you may be in an area without tower coverage.

Make sure someone knows your itinerary.  Even if you are camping without your dog, it’s a good idea to let someone know where you plan to be.  If you or your dog become injured or don’t return on schedule, at least one person should know where to look for you.

Start Small

Would you consider climbing Mount Everest before you had ever scaled a rock wall at a local park?  Of course not!  As every outdoor enthusiast knows, you start small and work your way up to the biggest challenges.

It’s no different for your dog.  Take short day trips to your local parks to see how your dog reacts to the excitement of being in the great outdoors.  Physically condition your dog by taking short hikes and hiking a little farther each day.  Mentally condition the animal by socializing him or her to the types of things that may be encountered on your vacation.  If you expect to run into other dogs, take your dog to the dog park or day care and make sure the dog isn’t too aggressive to be successful.

If you will be fly fishing, make sure your dog likes playing in running water.  Find a small stream or lake near you and see if the dog will come in with you.  If you’ll be taking the dog to music camp, it’s better to find out now if he or she should be confined to the showers during the evening entertainment, where the dog can sing along without bothering the other campers.

If you will be allowing your dog to carry some of your gear when hiking, try out the backpack during your small day trips.  A healthy dog can carry about 25% of his or her body weight, and the items the dog carries should be unbreakable.  Start your dog out with a small load such as an empty backpack, and build up as he or she becomes more fit.  Make sure the load is evenly balanced on both sides of the dog to prevent muscle strain.  Dogs younger than one year of age should not carry anything, as it can cause damage to their developing joints.

Sleep out in your back yard for a night or two, using the equipment you plan to use on your trip.  If your dog can’t stand the smell of the new tent, you’d probably rather learn that now than when you are 300 miles away from home and unable to sleep for a whole week due to his or her howling.

Get your dog used to the bedding you will be using at the campsite.  You will likely want to put a tarp or some other moisture barrier under the dog bed.  Is that going to freak out your dog?  Let him or her practice sleeping on the bed with the liner to get used to that crinkly sound produced by movements.  Make sure the bed is padded enough to keep the dog warm if you expect cool overnight temperatures where you are traveling.

While you have the tent pitched, see if your dog can get out of it.  If so, you will need to crate him or her at night, or find some other way to keep the dog in the tent while you sleep.

Supplies

When you are making your pack list, consider what your dog will need.  Some of these items have been mentioned above, and some are important enough that you should have duplicates for all the things that might go wrong.  Be a good boy scout and make sure you are prepared for common camping disasters.  You may not be able to go down the street to a local store if you are in a remote area.  Losing your dog’s water dish may mean the end of the trip if you don’t have a spare.  At a minimum, your list should include the following for your dog:

• 2 water dishes, or 1 dish and a back-up plan for what to use if it’s lost
• 1 food dish (the dog can eat off the ground if it gets lost)
• Food, including a way to suspend it off the ground to keep critters out
• Fresh water supply
• 2 heavy-duty collars
• 2 sturdy leashes, which should be non-retractable and no longer than 4 feet
• Harness if you will be rock climbing or exposing your dog to other drop-off dangers
• A tie-out if you will be spending a significant amount of time confined to your campsite
• Clothing, as necessary to the dog and the environment.  Bring spares in case of an accidental dunking in the river or rolling in something smelly
• Bedding, including an underlayment for moisture
• At least one towel or shammy.  You never know what you might have to clean up or dry off.  The super-absorbent Sham-Wow towel shown on those annoying TV commercials really does do a nice job of absorbing the water from your dog’s coat, and the towel dries pretty quickly.
• A first aid kit, including your dog’s regular medications.  Suggested contents for your first aid kit can be found in the Pet Education Center from Drs. Foster and Smith.
• A small air horn or other noise maker that can be used to break up dog fights, in case you happen to be camping next to an aggressive dog.
• Treats, toys, bones, and other things that might make them feel more at home.
• Poop bags
• Sunblock if your dog has short hair or areas of exposed skin

You might also consider a dog GPS system in the event your dog wanders off chasing a squirrel or some other critter.  See our review of GPS dog collars in the doggies.com Dog Den.

During your trip

Check your dog every day for ticks.  Remove ticks by grabbing them close to the dog’s skin with a pair of tweezers and pulling firmly.  Place the ticks in a vial of alcohol to make sure they are killed.

Check your dog’s foot pads every day.  Remove any debris that may be stuck between or in the pads, and use Bag Balm or Vaseline to soothe raw spots.

Keep your dog away from heavy brush.  He or she can pick up the oils from poisonous plants and give you a heck of a case of poison ivy or poison oak when you pet the dog.

Keep your dog away from the droppings of other animals to lessen the chances of infection.  When your own dog leaves a pile, either bag it and dispose of it when you get to a trash can or bury it where it falls.

When you are hiking, make frequent stops to rest and rehydrate.  Make sure your dog has access to clean, fresh water as often as heat and activity levels indicate.  It’s better to give him or her more water than needed rather than risk dehydration.

If you will be swimming or boating on your trip, consider buying a life vest for your dog.  The dog may love the water, but strong currents or long swims may be too much for him or her.

Rinse your dog with a hose when you come back from swimming or hiking.  In addition to helping cool the dog off, you will be removing any potential skin irritants such as sand, salt water, dirt, and plant products.

Where do dogs camp?

All of the National Parks, National Monuments, and National Forests allow you to take your dog to their campsites, but many of them do not allow your dog to come with you on trail hikes.  State parks are usually a little less restrictive.  Private sites should be contacted before your trip to find out their dog policies, as well as any additional fees which may be charged if you bring your pet.  Check the park’s website or contact them directly to get all of your questions answered.

For private parks, make sure to ask how large their dog-allowed area is.  They may say they have an area where dogs can be walked, but if it’s only 3-feet square, how much good will it do you?

Ask about leash rules, as well.  In most cases, you will be told your dog must be leashed at all times on their property.

Try to arrive at your destination early in the day so you can have your pick of campsites.  Look for one that is next to someone who also has a dog or for one that offers some privacy.  Both of these strategies can contribute to not having the neighbors complain about your dog.  The less people complain, the more likely it is that campgrounds will continue to allow dogs to camp with us.

Make sure your campsite includes adequate shade to allow your dog to cool down.

Find out where the closest vet is to your campsite, either by asking at the camp office or by using the AAHA Animal Hospital locator.

For more information on camping with your dog:

Travel with Pets

Summer Health and Safety Guide  Summer Health and Safety Guide

Pet Friendly Campgrounds, Parks and Beaches

Top Ten Tips for Camping With Your Dog

Camping with your pet

Choose Breeding Stock Carefully

Hip dysplasia is a congenital disease where the hip socket is too shallow to properly contain the ball at the top of the femur.  The joint is loose, and as the muscles surrounding the hip socket develop, they pull on the bones, causing the joint to become unstable.  As the ball bounces around in the socket, the protective cartilage begins to wear down and cause pain and lameness in the hind legs.  The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA)  estimates that somewhere between 20 and 40% of large breed dogs will be affected by this disease, although any breed of dog may have problems.

If you are a breeder, make sure your dogs have healthy hips before you breed them.  If you are purchasing a puppy from a breeder, you will want to see certification from the OFA as to the soundness of the parents’ hips.

For a fee, the OFA will review X-rays taken by a local veterinarian for signs of hip dysplasia.  If the hips are normal for the specific breed of dog, an OFA number is assigned to that dog.  If a dog is found to have hip dysplasia, the information remains confidential, so make sure you see the certification number which indicates that hip dysplasia is not present.  The OFA number may be added to the dog’s AKC registration papers, but that is not required.  The important thing is that both parents have a certification number, particularly if you are considering a large breed.

Another certification program is run by the University of Pennsylvania.  The PennHIP program can screen dogs as young as 16 weeks old, and is said to produce fewer false negatives.  In the OFA program, a certain percentage of dogs may be certified who later turn up to have hip dysplasia.  Under the PennHIP program, this percentage appears to be lower.  Unfortunately, the PennHIP test is more expensive, and breed organizations have been slow to endorse the program.

After reviewing the X-rays of a dog, the University of Pennsylvania will send a report to the owner with a Laxity Profile Ranking score.  The recommendation of the PennHIP program is to breed only those dogs who test in the top 40% of dogs of that breed, with the hope that the incidence of hip dysplasia will then be bred out of the breed.

The best strategy for avoiding hip dysplasia is to only purchase puppies from dogs who have been certified as free from hip problems or as in the top 40% of hip laxity as compared to other members of the breed.  Another great prevention strategy is to avoid purebred dogs altogether.  Mutts rarely have hip dysplasia due to the diverse gene pools from which they are created.

Dog Sports

Assuming your dog does not have a genetic predisposition to hip dysplasia, the next prevention strategy to assure maximum joint health is to protect your dog from rough play during his developmental period.  Dogs should not be enrolled in any type of sport until his joints and growth plates have fully developed.  Even jumping up and down off the furniture or standing on their back legs to compensate for their short puppy stature should be discouraged.

Just as with humans, the more stress that is placed on the joints through exercise, the greater the likelihood of joint problems later in life.  Sports that don’t include a lot of running and jumping will be the ones that are least likely to cause the protective cartilage over the joint surfaces to deteriorate.  For this reason, swimming is one of the best exercises for your dog.  It has virtually no impact on the joints, and working the muscles against the resistance of water is one of the best ways to keep your dog in shape.

Rough-and-tumble dog sports have been associated with tears in the Anterior Cruciate Ligament (ACL) of the knee and elbow joints.  It is vital to strike a balance between keeping your dog active and protecting his or her joints.  Proper conditioning before competitions is important, as is warming up and cooling down before and after strenuous exercise.

Keeping Your Dog in Tip-Top Shape

As your dog grows, keeping him or her in great physical condition can help to prevent joint problems.  Dogs who are overweight are much more prone to osteoarthritis than dogs who maintain an ideal weight.

When you look at your dog from above, you should be able to see a defined waistline.  If not, you need to cut back on the food and treats.

When you place your thumbs on the dogs spine and fan your fingers out over his or her rib cage, you should be able to feel the ribs through the skin.  If not, the dog is overweight.  Doctors Foster and Smith offer a very detailed method to determine whether or not your dog is overweight.

In addition to cutting back on the number of calories your dog is eating, you will want to increase the number of calories he or she is burning off by starting an exercise regimen.  Even a daily walk can help shave off a few pounds and strengthen the muscles around the joints to give them greater stability.

Food Additives, Supplements, and Prescription Medications

The primary objective in adding joint protective supplements to a dog’s diet is to strengthen and protect the joint cartilage.  Cartilage acts as a shock absorber inside the joints, cushioning and protecting the bone ends to keep them from grinding against each other.  When the cartilage becomes inflamed or begins deteriorating, it is less able to provide protection to the bones.

One of the most well-known supplements used for joint health is glucosamine-chondroitin.  Glucosamine has been found to help build cartilage, while chondroitin helps to fight against the enzymes in your dog’s body that cause cartilage to break down over time.

You may have also heard of giving your dog fish oil as a nutritional supplement.  Fish oils contain omega-3 fatty acids which are known to reduce inflammation.  Nordic Naturals sells fish oils, and offers a great description of their benefits in a recent issue of Nordic News.

Check the label on the dog food you are currently using.  We all know that some sort of protein should be listed first, but check the other ingredients on the list, as well.  Many dog food manufacturers are now including joint protective ingredients in the food, making it unnecessary to purchase separate supplements.  Many times these foods have a price premium because of the added ingredients, so you should compare the cost of the food the amount you are spending on supplements.

Once arthritis has set in to your dog’s joints, you will focus on pain relief and reducing inflammation.  Simple buffered aspirin can do both jobs, but make sure you are giving real aspirin, not acetaminophen (Tylenol) or ibuprofen (Advil).  If your dog’s pain cannot be relieved with these over-the-counter products, you might ask your vet for a prescription of Rimadyl, EtoGesic, Metacam, or Zubrin, all of which provide a reduction in inflammation.  Some also contain pain relievers.

The next step in treatment is steroidal drugs which will also reduce inflammation.  Examples include prednisolone and dexamethasone.

Symptoms of Joint Degeneration

Even with the best care, your dog may begin to develop osteoarthritis as a natural effect of aging.  As your dog first begins to develop joint problems, you may or may not notice subtle changes in his or her behavior and ability.  The dog may start to slow down and prefer shorter periods of exercise than he or she had previously enjoyed.  Getting up onto the couch or jumping into the car may become more difficult.

As the disease progresses, your dog might begin limping or holding the affected paw up rather than supporting his or her weight with it.  The pain and stiffness may be worse after the dog has rested for awhile.  If he or she gets up to walk, there may be a pronounced limp for the first few steps, then a more normal gait.  The dog may not want you to touch the affected joint because it becomes sensitive to touch.

As the dog begins favoring one paw, you might notice the muscle mass beginning to shrink.

Physical Therapy

Your arthritic dog may benefit from physical therapy.  A regimen of gently extending and flexing the joint, coupled with massage, can help to reduce both pain and inflammation.   Underwater therapy might include swimming and running on a treadmill in a pool.  These exercises can help your dog lose weight which will place less stress on his or her joints, while allowing the dog to achieve greater range of motion without pain.

Your therapist may also recommend other treatment modalities such as ultrasound and electrical stimulation.  The Canine Rehabilitation Institute can help you find a certified rehab specialists in your state.

Ask your vet or physical therapist for a recommendation as to an orthopedic bed for your dog.  Soft bedding that keeps the joints warm can also be of benefit to arthritic dogs.

Surgical Solutions

A veterinary orthopedic surgeon can provide definitive relief for your dog’s joint pain.  Surgery is most likely to be used for younger dogs who have developed joint issues as a result of injury.  Repairs may be done arthroscopically or the whole joint may even be replaced.  Cartilage grafts may also be implanted to replace or supplement what has deteriorated or that which has been lost due to injury.

The basics of dog agility

An agility course for dogs is fairly similar to the obstacle course you ran when you were younger.  Dogs go through weave poles, ride a teeter-totter, climb an A-frame, and run through tunnels, with the handler leading the way so they get all of the elements in the correct order.  No, the handlers don’t have to go through the obstacles, but they do have to lead the dog to the start and be waiting at the end of each apparatus to show them where to go next.  Handlers are not allowed to touch the dog or the apparatus, and they are not allowed to use food or toys to entice the dog to perform.

What makes agility so challenging for both the dog and the handler is that no two courses are the same.  The judge gets to choose the course layout for each competition, and the obstacles are numbered in the order in which they are to be completed.  Dogs are judged on both speed and accuracy.  When the judge lays out the course, he or she calculates a Standard Course Time or SCT.  For every second over the SCT, the team incurs a time fault point.  In addition, the team can accumulate course fault points by going through obstacles in the wrong order or by knocking down a bar by not completely clearing a jump or by skipping a weave pole.

Fault points are added to the dog’s time to come up with a score, and the dog with the lowest total score wins.

Obstacles for Dog Agility

Although the judge can lay out the course in any order, the obstacles used are standard and fall into four categories:  contact obstacles, tunnels, jumps, and miscellaneous.

Contact obstacles generally have one section painted a different color than the rest, which indicates sections of the obstacle where the dog’s feet must touch.  For example, a teeter-totter usually has both ends painted in a contrasting color to the rest of the board.  At least one of the dog’s feet must touch in each painted area to avoid a fault.  The point is that the dog must traverse the entire board, not simply the middle section.

In addition to the teeter-totter, contact obstacles include the A-frame and the dog walk.  The A-frame consists of two boards set up with a peak in the middle.  The dog must climb one side and run down the other.  The dog walk is a horizontal plank with gently sloping planks leading up to it.  The dog runs up one of the sloping planks, across the horizontal plank, and down the other sloping plank.  The A-frame and the dog walk both have slats to assist the dog in keeping his footing.

Tunnels may be rigid or collapsible and come in varying lengths.  A rigid tunnel is basically a large PVC pipe that a dog runs through.  A collapsible tunnel is made of material that collapses flat.  As the dog runs through the tunnel, he or she must push the tunnel open.  A collapsible tunnel is usually attached to the end of a rigid tunnel, such that the dog runs through the rigid tunnel and then enters the collapsible portion.

A variety of styles exist for jumps, also known as hurdles.  The simplest jump is a panel jump, where one or several slats are supported between two stanchions.  The slats can be stacked to allow for dogs of differing heights.  Very similar to the panel jump is the hurdle that uses bars in place of the slats.  Using bars allows the introduction of a spread jump, where two or three bars are used, but they are not stacked on top of each other.  Rather, they are spread out so that the dog must jump a horizontal distance as well as a vertical distance.  The bars may be at the same height or they may ascend.

A broad jump is constructed of four or five planks placed close to the ground that the dog must jump completely over without touching any of the planks.  A round hoop may also used as a jump obstacle, known as a tire jump, whereby the dog must jump through the donut hole in the middle of the ring.

Miscellaneous obstacles include the pause table, pause box, and weave poles.  The pause table is an elevated table, where the handler has the dog jump up onto the table and either sit or lie down.  Once the dog is settled, the judge will begin counting out a number of seconds.  The dog may not jump off of the table until the requisite number of seconds has passed.  The pause box is a similar obstacle, only a box is taped off on the floor of the ring, eliminating the requirement of the dog jumping on and off of the table.

Weave poles can be thought of as doggie slalom.  3-foot poles are placed about twenty inches apart.  The dog must enter the obstacle with the first pole on his or her left and weave through each opening in the poles.  Skipping a pole, even if the dog goes back and picks it up, results in a fault.  Courses may include anywhere from five to twenty weave poles in a sequence.

Sanctioning Bodies for Dog Agility

In North America, there are four major sanctioning bodies for dog agility.  Each has slightly different rules, qualifications, and fault scoring systems, but all use basically the same obstacles.

• American Kennel Club (AKC)
• North American Dog Agility Council (NADAC)
• United States Dog Agility Association (USDAA)
• Agility Association of Canada (AAC)

Starting in dog agility

You can start your dog in agility at any age, although dogs younger than one year should be trained cautiously to prevent damage to their developing joints.  The bigger the dog breed, the greater the probability of damage and the more care that must be taken, such as be using lower obstacle heights and simpler courses.

Some dogs are very confident and attack each obstacle with great enthusiasm the very first time.  These dogs must be trained carefully to make sure they don’t become overly confident and sloppy.  Dogs who rush through an agility course are apt to miss the contact points on contact obstacles or to skip weave poles in their exuberance.

Other dogs are scared to even get started, and must be shown how much fun the course is before they will be willing to participate.  The collapsible tunnel often creates the biggest challenge; however, the dog’s confidence will improve if the handler uses positive training with praise and rewards to coax the dog through the scary parts.

Specific training varies according to the obstacle, but there are some general principles which apply to all.  First,make sure your dog is in top physical condition and has a good basis in obedience training.  Your dog should be able to run at full speed for at least one minute in order to complete a course, and it goes without saying that the dog must obey your commands in order to get through a course in the proper order.

Break each task down into smaller steps.  No dog is going to immediately understand what you want him or her to do with the weave poles.  You might start with just one pole set up and teach the dog that the pole must always be on his or her left.  Then set up two poles and have the dog go to the right of the first pole and through the opening between the poles.  Then add a third pole so the dog learns he must then turn back and go through the next opening from the opposite side.  Keep adding poles as the dog gets more comfortable.  Once the dog has the general idea, you will start going for speed, encouraging the dog to keep his or her body close to the poles while running at top speed.

Use lower heights at the start of training.  Dogs become more uncomfortable the higher they are off the ground and the more the obstacle moves, so begin with a teeter totter that is laying flat on the ground.  Have the dog practice moving across the plank without moving off the sides.  Make sure the dog touches the contact zones at both ends.  Then raise the teeter totter just slightly so that the dog is never more than a few inches off of the ground.  As the dog becomes more confident, raise the fulcrum point until the dog is able to complete the exercise at standard height.

Use obstacles that are less intimidating to start out.  For example, if you convince a dog to go through a rigid tunnel first, he or she may be more willing to go through a collapsible tunnel later on.

Consider joining an agility club near you so you can benefit from the experience of veteran trainers and can use their equipment for training.  Another advantage to training at a club is that there are built-in distractions because the other members will be around while you are training.  While your dog might learn faster without these distractions, he or she may fall apart in competitions because of the crowd.

Agility is a wonderfully active sport for any dog, but it takes a lot of patience and consistent training to be successful.

The very first thing you must remember is that dogs cannot sweat.  The human body produces sweat to cool the body.  Just as you are cooler when you step out of the shower soaking wet, the sweat your body produces helps to keep you from getting overheated.  However, dogs don’t have this capability.  The primary way in which they can cool off is by panting, but that is not very efficient.  Dogs like Pugs who have very flat faces are especially susceptible to heat problems because their flat faces don’t leave much room to circulate air over the tongue.

The problem with dogs in summer

Dogs experience the same heat-related problems as people.  They may become sunburned if they don’t have a lot of fur, they can become dehydrated, and they can get heat stroke, even if they are in great physical health.  Dogs who aren’t in great health to begin with are likely not only to react to the heat more quickly than than other dogs, but also to have a more severe, possibly deadly, reaction.  Elderly dogs, those who are significantly overweight, and dogs who have cardiovascular problems should be kept in an air-conditioned environment as much as possible.

Dr. Lila Miller of the ASPCA gives this description of the overheated pet:

Symptoms of  overheating in pets include excessive panting or difficulty breathing, increased heart and respiratory rate, drooling, mild weakness, stupor or even collapse. They can also include seizures, bloody diarrhea and vomit along with an elevated body temperature of over 104 degrees.

Dogs in cars

Do I even need to say this?  Never, never, never, never, never leave a dog in a parked car in the summer!  The temperature inside a parked car rises extremely quickly, even with the windows cracked.  Have you ever gone to pick someone up from an appointment during the summer months and had to wait a few minutes.  Even if you open the windows or doors all the way to let a breeze  in, you will quickly wish the person for whom you are waiting would hurry up already.

With your dog’s limited self-cooling ability, the heat can overtake him or her very quickly and can cause death in a very short time.  If you have absolutely no other alternatives to leaving your dog in the car, leave the engine running and the air conditioner on.  Open your hood to keep the motor from overheating.  If the car won’t run or you don’t have enough gas, then take the dog with you.  Leaving a dog in a car without air conditioning is simply not an option.

To shave or not to shave?

A dog’s fur coat may actually help your dog stay cool.  Air can circulate between the individual hairs, helping to keep the dog cool.  However, if your dog has a very long or heavy coat, you may want to clip the hair somewhat to help with cooling.  Make sure to leave at least one inch of fur to protect the skin from sunburn.

Other hot weather hazards

Remember when you were a kid and walked around barefoot all the time.  It didn’t take too long to learn that concrete was okay, but when you got to the black asphalt, you walked in the grass.  Your dog’s feet are also sensitive to the hot asphalt, so if you stop to chat while you are walking your dog, pay attention to where you are standing.  Your shoes will protect your own feet, but make sure you’re not standing your dog on scorching blacktop for very long.  Dogs who are low to the ground may also get overheated by the heat rising up off the blacktop as well.

In the summertime, we all want our yards and gardens to look good, but be careful of the pesticides, fertilizers, and other chemicals you use outside where your dog can get into them.  Choose pet-friendly brands or keep your dog inside between the time you apply the chemical and whenever it is absorbed.  Don’t forget that the citronella used to keep mosquitoes away is not good for dogs.  Don’t let them eat the candles!

Cocoa mulch might look great on your flowerbed, but it contains the same compounds that make chocolate a problem for dogs.  Don’t put cocoa mulch in areas where your dog might eat it.

If you take your dog with you to barbecues in the summer, make sure everyone knows whether or not your dog can eat people food.  If you do feed your dog from the table, keep in mind that many foods such as grapes, raisins, garlic, and onions are not good for him or her.

Do yourself and your dog a favor:  leave the dog at home when you go to the fireworks display.  Those loud noises can be terrifying, and your dog really will not enjoy the show.

Choosing a dog for a hot climate?

If you haven’t yet selected a dog for your family and if your home is in a hot climate, give some thought to which dogs will do well with the heat.  Obviously, dogs bred to work as sled dogs won’t be a good choice.  Huskies and Malamutes, for example just aren’t built to stand the heat.

Small dogs typically do better than large dogs, and dogs with lightweight coats have an easier time than those with heavy coats.  Dogs with short, pushed-in snouts will have to be kept inside most of the time if you live in a particularly warm climate.

This article from Associated Content tells you about a few of the dog breeds built to withstand the heat.

Strategies to help your dog beat the heat

In order to prevent your dog from getting overheated, make sure to provide shade when he is outside.  Whether you use a tent canopy, trees and shrubs, a picnic table, or a covered porch, your dog needs a place to relax out of the full sun.  You might put ice cubes in the water dish to provide a cool treat. Make sure the water dish is always full, and provide fresh water often.  Your dog doesn’t want to drink dirty water any more than you do.

Children’s pools are a great way to allow your dog to beat the heat, but some dogs should never be allowed to swim without supervision.  Large-boned dogs and those with large heads aren’t built for water.

For more information on hot weather hazards, check out the American Dog Trainer’s Network’s Hot Weather Safety Tips for Dogs.

Birth and infancy

After about 8 weeks in the womb, a puppy comes into the world inside an amniotic sac.  The mother begins licking the puppy to break the sac and to stimulate the puppy to start breathing.  Inside the womb, the puppy’s lungs didn’t have to work because oxygen from the mother’s bloodstream provided oxygen to all of the puppy’s body systems.  However, as soon as the umbilical cord is cut, the puppy no longer has access to the mama dog’s cardiopulmonary system and must begin breathing on his or her own.

Once the puppy has been cleaned, he or she will generally find a way to the mama’s teats and start nursing.  No one knows exactly how puppies find their way because until about 10 – 14 days of age, they cannot smell, hear, or see.  It is possible to tell which puppies are going to have alpha personalities by watching where they feed.  The teats in the center of the mama’s belly are generally considered prime real estate, and that’s where the alpha puppies will head.  Less dominant puppies will get the teats at the top and bottom of the abdomen, while truly meek puppies will usually have to wait until the others are done eating.

Early vocalization

It takes about 3 weeks before a puppy will make much sound other than a whimper.  Any loud cries should be immediately investigated because they likely mean the puppy is in distress.  In large litters, some of the smaller puppies may not be getting enough feeding time because they are shoved aside by their larger brothers and sisters.  Bigger puppies may also inadvertently hurt the smaller ones when they are playing, or the mama dog may sit down or roll over on a small puppy.  So if you hear your puppy crying, you need to go check on him right away.

Transitional

Between two and four weeks of age, puppies begin to open their eyes, crawl around, bark, and wag their tails.  They start realizing they have brothers and sisters, as well as a mama (a distinct creature, not just a source of nutrition).  Their baby teeth begin to come in, and they are generally started on solid food at this time, although they will still nurse from their mother, too.

Childhood

From four to twelve weeks, puppies start to learn socialization.  The puppies will begin to play with their littermates and learn how to “play bite”.  They use these little nips to warn each other when play is getting too rough, but the bites are not intended to inflict pain.

Puppies can begin potty training at about five to eight weeks, and their mama may be their best teacher.  Let them follow mama outdoors as often as possible, and they may begin to get some idea of what is expected of them.  You can also confine them to a smallish area because they won’t want to mess up their sleeping area.  If you keep them in a small area, then let them out frequently to relieve themselves, it will also help them to get the idea.

By eight weeks, puppies are usually fully weaned and can be sent to their forever homes.

By about twelve weeks, your dog should have been vaccinated against most easily-transmissable infection diseases and is ready to begin playing with other dogs.  Socialization to other dogs is important because it can prevent your dog from being overly aggressive or overly fearful later in life.  You should also socialize your dog to other household pets, including your children.

Growth

From four to six months, your dog’s primary job is to grow.  It may seem that they add inches and pounds literally overnight.  Although your new puppy will be very energetic, you will want to keep an eye on him or her to prevent rough play from injuring growing tissue.  Joints are especially prone to injury, so you should try to keep your dog from jumping off anything too high up.

During this time period, your dog will also begin to try to figure out the social structure at your home.  It is vital that you show the dog that you are the alpha member of the household and the he or she belongs well down the social ladder.  Some things you will use to establish this pecking order include basic obedience training, and teaching your dog to do things only when you have given permission.  For example, make the dog sit and stay before you put the food dish down.  Allow the dog to get on couches and beds only after he or she has been invited.  Feed the dog after the rest of the family has eaten.  You must reinforce the fact that you are above the dog at every opportunity during these formative months, or you may struggle for supremacy for the remainder of the dog’s life.  That may sound heartless and cold, but if your dog doesn’t understand that he or she must be subservient to you, it can cause major behavior problems later on.

Adolescence

From six to twelve months, your dog is going through his or her adolescent phase.  Just as with human teenagers, this can be a difficult time to be a parent.  Your dog is now big enough to cause real damage to your home or your children (particularly if you have a large breed), yet young enough not to understand that rowdy play might not always be appropriate.

Somewhere between one and two years old, your dog will reach social maturity and begin to settle down.  For some dogs this maturity isn’t attained until as old as three years, but it will come eventually – don’t lose heart!  Just keep working with your dog until he or she learns you are the boss and in charge of all the good things in life.

For more information

• Dumb Friends League Developmental Stages of Puppy Behavior
• The Puppy Portal Seven Stages of Puppy Development
• Diamonds in the Rough Developmental Stages and Socialization
• Doggies.com Newborn Puppy Care

One final note

One of the biggest reasons why dogs are abandoned to shelters is because the dog doesn’t match the owner’s expectations.  Spend some time thinking about what you want out of a dog, and research the various breeds to match your lifestyle and expectations to the breed’s expected temperament.  Realize that your puppy will take a long time to mature, so be patient and continue with socialization and training to get the dog you desire.

The history of lure coursing

In the early 1970′s, Lyle Gillette and some of his friends from California hunted jackrabbits in open fields with their sighthounds.  However, barbed wire fencing separating the various fields caused numerous injuries to their dogs as they tried to follow the escaping hares into adjoining fields.  So, Gillette invented lure coursing to enable to dogs to use the skills of their heritage without actually running down game.  Plastic bags were used as lures, and the American Sighthound Field Association was born in 1972.  Since those early days, 120 member clubs have been formed throughout the United States.  The American Kennel Club began sanctioning events in 1991.

The Players

In the United States, the major sanctioning bodies for lure coursing are the American Sighthound Field Association and the American Kennel Club.  In Canada, races are sanctioned by the Canadian Kennel Club and the Canadian Sighthound Field Association.

Lure coursing was developed specifically for sighthounds such as the Afghan, the Russian Wolfhound, the Greyhound, the Whippet, the Rhodesian Ridgeback, the Basenji, and the Scottish Deerhound.  There is now a mixed breed dog club that runs its own races and is petitioning the AKC for inclusion of non-purebred dogs in their events.

Most of the national clubs for each breed have a portion of their websites devoted specifically to lure coursing.  A few examples are:

• Scottish Deerhound
• American Whippet
• Afghan Hound
• Greyhound

Although currently only purebreds are allowed to compete in ASFA and AKC trials, it doesn’t matter if the dog has full or limited registration.  The less expensive limited registration is sometimes the type of AKC registration pursued by dog guardians if they have no intention of breeding their dogs.  In contrast to some other AKC events, lure coursing dogs are allowed to be spayed/neutered, as the point of this sport is not furtherance of the breed.

The rules

The rules are slightly different, depending on which organization is sanctioning a particular event, but there are certain common elements.  The course is usually 600 – 1000 feet long and includes several turns to simulate the way a live rabbit or hare would run.

A lure is attached to a string and pulley system that maps out the course, and the object is for the dog to chase the lure through the course with the fastest time.  The course may or may not be fenced.  Dogs are brought to the start line wearing quick-release collars known as slip leads.  When the huntmaster signals the start of the race by calling “Tally-ho”, the dogs are released onto the course, completing a run in anywhere from 45 seconds to three minutes.

Dogs run in heats of two (a brace) or three (a trio) against other dogs of the same breed.  The dogs are identified by the color of blanket they wear.  One dog of the trio wears a pink blanket, one wears yellow, and the third wears blue.

If only one dog of a particular breed is entered in the event, that dog runs alone.  Dogs who run alone do not qualify for championship points unless they subsequently beat another dog in the Best of Field run-off at the end of the competition.

Running mates are chosen by random draw and no effort is made to match the dogs in ability or size for each heat, but there are different divisions that take into account previous experience and age.  Dogs may compete in Open Stake when they begin their careers.  Once they have amassed enough points to earn a Field Champion title, they run in the Field Champion Stake.  As most competitors reach the tender age of six, they advance to the Veteran Stake, although Irish Wolfhounds are promoted to veteran status at age five and Whippets don’t advance until age seven.  The rules were changed in 2010 for AKC races to promote Afghan Hounds and Rhodesian Ridgebacks at age seven, as well.

The typical day of competition involves preliminaries for each breed, where all of the Greyhounds run one trial, then all of the Salukis run one trial, then all of the Whippets, and so on.  Once all of the preliminaries are completed, the course is reversed, and the dogs run a final trial, again separated by breed.  A Best in Breed is determined for each breed, and some clubs then have a Best in Field run to pick the best hound for the day.  If there are multiple days involved in the event, they may have a Best in Event run on the final day pitting each day’s Best in Field winners against each other.

Interestingly, the tiny Italian Greyhound is not permitted to run in Best in Field events for the AKC because other breeds may chase him instead of the lure!

Earning a lure coursing title

In an ASFA event, the best possible score is 100, based on 25 possible points each for agility and speed, 20 points for endurance, 15 points for enthusiasm, and 15 points for following the lure rather than the other hounds.  Up to 10 penalty points may be assessed if the dog is released early at the start of the course or if the dog delays the trial.  Dogs are disqualified if they interfere with another hound or if they are too aggressive.  A dog is granted a field championship title after he or she receives 100 title points and places first in two races or completes three races with at least one first place and two second place runs.

For AKC events, the maximum score is 50, with 10 possible points each for overall ability, follow, speed, agility, and endurance.  A dog who receives the full 50 points in each of four qualifying runs earns a Senior Courser title.  Dog also receive points toward their field championship title by competing in trials, with each trial awarding 1 – 5 points based on the number of dogs competing.  A “major” is a trial that awards 3, 4, or 5 points.  Dogs who have received 15 points by participating in numerous events, including at least two majors, are designated as Field Champions.  As a dog earns more points, he or she may be given the title of Lure Courser Excellent (LCX).  For each 45 additional points earned, the dog goes from LCX to LCX II to LCX III, and so on.

Different from Greyhound racetracks

Greyhound racing has fallen into major disfavor in the United States due to the treatment of the dogs involved.  These dogs are raised only to race, and are typically kept in small cages and euthanized when they have reached the end of their racing days.

In lure coursing, it is more common for the animals to be family pets who incidentally compete in the sport.  The dogs are usually pampered and cherished members of the family, rather than a commodity used for financial gain.  In fact, no money is awarded to the winners of lure coursing events; people enter their dogs strictly for the enjoyment of seeing them run.

In addition, Greyhound racetracks provide only a simple oval for the dogs to run, rather than the back and forth turns of lure coursing, which more closely simulates how a dog would run after live prey.

Check out the event schedules on the ASFA and AKC sites to find upcoming trials in your area.